Finely crushed red brick, compacts to the classic red surface of courts, arenas and paths.
Red brick fines is our finest crushed brick, screened down at Hope Valley from Perth demolition brick into an even grade in the classic terracotta red everybody recognises from old tennis courts and riding arenas. It compacts firm underfoot, stays porous enough to drain fast after rain, and it won't break down, bleach out or wash thin the way organic mulch does. That combination is why it turns up on more surfaces than almost anything else we sell: horse arenas, tennis and cricket club surrounds, garden paths, verge parking, driveways and the base under artificial turf.
It's also the one product Glen and the yard get asked the most practical questions about, and the one Perth's other suppliers write the least about. Below is what we've learned selling it for years: how deep to lay it for each job, how it stacks up against crushed limestone, quarry dust and decomposed granite, how much you'll need, and a straight answer on asbestos testing in recycled brick. For exact quantities on your job, run it through our volume calculator or send a quote request and we'll work it out with you.
Red brick fines starts as demolition brick from Perth building and demolition sites, much of it carted in on our own trucks. At our Hope Valley yard it goes through the crusher and screens with the rest of our recycled range, and the fine cut is what becomes red brick fines: a small, even grade with the oversize chunks and dust extremes screened out, sitting finer than our 20mm and 35mm red crushed brick. What's left is a fine, workable material that spreads easily with a rake, wets up and compacts to a firm surface, and keeps enough void between particles to let water through rather than pond on top.
Because it's fired clay brick rather than concrete or limestone, the colour holds. It doesn't leach lime, it doesn't go grey with UV the way some mulches do, and it's heavier and more stable underfoot than loose decorative gravel. Every load is recycled demolition material, so using it keeps brick out of landfill rather than digging up fresh quarry rock for a job that doesn't need it.
This is the job nobody in Perth seems to write about, and it's worth doing properly because getting it wrong costs a lot more than the material. Crushed brick fines have a long history as an arena and menage surface, most visibly as the base of the old "en tout cas" clay tennis courts, and the same properties that suit a tennis court (fine, firm, free draining, doesn't turn to soup in the wet) are why some Perth riders run it in their arenas, either on its own or blended through sand as a footing.
Used well, a brick fines layer is usually laid 75 to 100mm deep over a properly compacted base, the same base construction used under any arena surface: a compacted crushed rock or limestone sub-base, laser graded to fall, with the footing layer screeded evenly on top. Depth matters more than most people expect. Too shallow and horses feel the hard base through it; too deep and you're asking tendons to work through loose, unstable footing, which is a soundness risk, not just a comfort one.
Where brick fines earns its place is drainage and consistency: it doesn't turn greasy like clay, it dries out faster than sand alone after Perth's winter rain, and it doesn't compact to concrete the way straight limestone dust can. Where it needs care is dust in summer (it wants regular watering, same as any arena surface) and fines migration over time, where the finest particles can work down and start to clog drainage if the base wasn't built with that in mind. Plenty of arena builders lean on limestone or metal dust bases for that reason and use brick fines as a topping rather than the whole profile. Talk to us about your base and your discipline before you order, and if you're not sure, ask an arena builder to check your design; we'll sort the material once you know the specification.
This is the bread and butter use, and where red brick fines has been doing the job in Perth gardens for decades. Laid 40 to 75mm deep over a compacted, weed-matted base, it rakes out to a clean, firm path that doesn't scatter underfoot the way loose pebble does and doesn't need topping up every year like bark mulch. The red holds its own against limestone edging, besser block or steel, and it reads as a deliberate garden material rather than leftover rubble.
Verge parking is the other big one. Councils across Perth generally want a permeable surface on the verge, and brick fines ticks that box while standing up to a car parked on it week after week, provided it's laid over a compacted base and edged so it can't creep onto the footpath or into the gutter.
Red brick fines works well as the finished surface over a proper driveway base, giving a warm, low-maintenance alternative to limestone or bitumen for a home driveway, farm entrance or low-traffic hardstand. It isn't a base material in its own right for vehicle areas; the strength comes from what's underneath. Compact the subgrade, build up with a roadbase or limestone base to carry the load, then finish with 75 to 100mm of brick fines, watered in and compacted, for the running surface.
Done this way it copes fine with regular cars, tradie utes and the odd delivery van. It won't take repeated heavy truck traffic or tight turning loads the way an engineered roadbase or concrete pad will, and like any unbound surface it will show wheel ruts if the base underneath wasn't compacted properly or if water is allowed to pond and soften it. Kerb the edges, whether that's concrete, steel or timber, so the material stays where you put it and doesn't wash or spread onto the lawn or the neighbour's verge.
Crushed red brick has been used on tennis courts for well over a century. It's the material behind the "en tout cas" clay courts still found around Australian tennis clubs, prized because it drains and dries far faster than a traditional clay surface after rain, so play resumes sooner. The same free-draining, fine, firm character makes it a sound choice for cricket practice run ups, net surrounds and the hard-wearing strip around a synthetic or turf wicket where players are constantly landing and pivoting.
Be realistic about scope. A full, competition-grade clay tennis court is an engineered surface with specific layer construction, drainage and rolling requirements, and a club committee resurfacing a competition court should be working with a specialist court builder on the design. Where red brick fines is a straightforward, cost-effective fix is practice courts, backyard courts, net surrounds, run ups and the general hardstand around club facilities that takes a hammering but isn't itself the graded playing surface. It wants regular light rolling and watering to stay tight and even, the same maintenance any brick dust or clay surface needs.
For informal play areas, running tracks, pump tracks and backyard BMX loops, red brick fines compacts to a firm, low-dust track that holds its shape under bike tyres and running feet without the ruts you get in loose sand or the mud you get in clay. Kids' cubby areas, trampoline surrounds and general play space around the yard are all reasonable uses, laid the same way as a path: compacted base, 50 to 75mm of brick fines, watered and rolled or plate compacted.
One place we won't oversell it is as certified soft-fall surfacing. Australian Standards set out impact and fall-height requirements for the surface under climbing equipment, slides and swings, and loose crushed brick isn't designed or tested against those requirements the way purpose-built soft-fall products are. Keep it for open play areas, paths between equipment, tracks and general hardstand, and use a proper certified soft-fall product in the actual fall zone under play equipment.
Artificial turf needs a stable, free-draining base and a fine, screeded top layer for the turf to sit flat on. Red brick fines does well in that top levelling role, similar to the way our concrete fines (0-10mm) get used: it screeds out smooth over a compacted sub-base, gives the turf backing something even to bed into, and lets water pass straight through rather than sitting under the turf and going stagnant.
The usual approach is a compacted roadbase or limestone sub-base for structure, then 20 to 30mm of screeded brick fines as the fine levelling layer the turf is laid directly onto, compacted flat before the turf goes down. It's also a handy general levelling course anywhere you need to fine-tune a grade before paving, decking or another finish goes over the top, since it compacts firm without setting rock hard like limestone fines can.
The result you get from red brick fines comes down to base preparation more than the material itself. Start with a compacted subgrade, free of soft spots, organic matter and standing water. For paths and light areas that can be as simple as compacting the natural ground; for driveways, hardstand and arenas you need a proper base course underneath, built up in layers and compacted as you go, not dumped in one thick lift.
Spread the brick fines in an even layer at the depth the job calls for (see the depth guide in each section above), water it in lightly so it's damp rather than wet, and compact it. For paths, courtyards and small areas a plate compactor does the job in a few passes. For driveways, hardstand and arenas a roller gets a more even result over a larger area and is worth hiring in. Too much water and the fines will pump and rut under the compactor instead of locking together; too little and it won't bind at all, so aim for damp like a sandcastle, not soaked.
Edge the job before you compact, not after. Steel edging, timber, besser block or a concrete mowing strip all work, and holding the material in from the start stops it spreading and keeps your finished edge straight.
Because it's fired clay, red brick fines holds its terracotta colour far better than dyed mulch or timber products, which grey off within a season or two in the Perth sun. Over several years of foot and vehicle traffic the surface will dull slightly as the top layer of fines gets ground finer and picked up on shoes and tyres, and it's normal to top up a heavily used path or driveway every few years rather than expect it to look freshly laid forever.
Weeds are less of an issue than in soil or mulch, but not impossible, especially once organic matter and dust build up on the surface over time; a weed mat under the initial layer makes the biggest difference and is worth doing properly at installation rather than fighting weeds later. Expect some fine red dust to track indoors on shoes for the first few weeks after laying, the same as any freshly laid crushed material, settling down once it's compacted and trafficked in.
In heavy rain it drains well rather than washing away in normal use, but on a slope, or freshly laid before it's had a chance to bind, some fine material can wash toward the low point, which is exactly why base preparation, compaction and edging matter as much as the material itself. Freshly laid brick fines can also leave a light red tint on pale pavers, render or light concrete if it sits wet against them, so keep it clear of pale surfaces until it's compacted and settled, or hose those surfaces down after the first heavy rain.
Red brick fines is a genuinely recycled product. It's made from demolition brick collected from Perth building and demolition sites and processed at our Hope Valley yard, not quarried from virgin rock, so every tonne you buy is material that didn't go to landfill and didn't need fresh ground dug up to replace it.
Asbestos in construction and demolition material is a real and well understood risk across the WA recycling industry, not something specific to any one yard. Facilities that process construction and demolition waste in this state operate under regulatory guidance covering how material is accepted, inspected and handled, with procedures in place for isolating and dealing with anything suspect before it goes anywhere near the crusher. That's an industry-wide framework, not a specific product certification, and we're not going to claim a certificate or test result here that doesn't reflect what a given load has actually been through.
If asbestos testing matters to your job, and for a horse arena, a school, a childcare centre or anywhere else it should, ask us about the testing and handling behind the load you're buying before you order. We'd rather have that conversation up front than have you guessing.
Perth yards sell half a dozen materials that all look similar in a photo and behave very differently once they're down. Here's how red brick fines actually compares with the other options we supply for the same jobs.
| Material | Look | Compaction | Drainage | Best for | Watch out for |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Red brick fines | Warm terracotta red, fine and even | Compacts firm with light watering and rolling, stays a little more open than limestone | Free draining, dries quickly after rain | Horse arenas, tennis and cricket surrounds, paths, verge parking, courtyards | Can leave a light red tint on pale pavers or render if it sits wet against them before it's settled |
| Crushed limestone (19mm) | Cream to white, angular | Binds hard once watered and rolled, the standard Perth driveway and paving base | Compacts tight, sheds water off the top rather than through it | Driveways, crossovers, under paving, shed pads | Sets very firm, harder to dig out later, and can leach a pale residue onto dark surfaces |
| Quarry dust (cracker dust) | Blue grey, very fine | Sets up almost like weak concrete once watered and plate compacted | Compacts so tight it barely drains through, mostly sheds off the surface | Under artificial turf, tank and slab pads, paver sub-base | Can stain light coloured pavers; bed pale pavers on sand over it rather than direct |
| Decomposed granite | Tan to gold with natural stone flecks | Compacts reasonably but not as firm as limestone or brick fines | Porous when laid and compacted correctly | Garden paths and courtyards where a natural stone look is wanted | Less stable as a structural base, usually used as a topping rather than the whole profile |
| Crushed gravel (5mm) | Reddish brown laterite, fine and clean | Firm but a touch looser than brick fines, fewer binding fines | Free draining | Path toppings, decorative dressing, pot toppers, detail work | A finer decorative grade, not intended for driveways, hardstand or arenas |
Red brick fines weighs about 1.3 tonnes per cubic metre loose. That figure, plus the area and depth of your job, is all you need to work out quantities. The table below covers the depths used above.
| Compacted depth | Area covered per m³ | Area covered per tonne |
|---|---|---|
| 25mm | 40 m² | about 30.8 m² |
| 50mm | 20 m² | about 15.4 m² |
| 75mm | about 13.3 m² | about 10.3 m² |
| 100mm | 10 m² | about 7.7 m² |
A couple of worked examples. A 40m² courtyard path laid 50mm deep needs about 2 cubic metres, roughly 2.6 tonnes. A 60m² driveway topping laid 75mm deep needs about 4.5 cubic metres, roughly 5.9 tonnes. A 20m by 40m horse arena (800m²) footing laid 75mm deep needs about 60 cubic metres, roughly 78 tonnes, which is a job worth confirming with us before you order given the size of the spend.
These figures assume a reasonably flat, prepared area and don't allow for extra depth in low spots or extra material lost to a base that keeps absorbing fines as it compacts. For anything beyond a small path, run your measurements through our volume calculator or send us a quote request with the area and depth and we'll confirm the tonnage and delivery.
| Colour | Classic tennis court red |
|---|---|
| Material | Finely crushed recycled red brick |
| Compaction | Compacts firm while staying porous |
| Drainage | Drains and dries quickly after rain |
| Source | Recycled demolition brick, processed at Hope Valley |
| Approx. density | 1.3 tonnes per m³ loose |
| Coverage | About 7.7 m² per tonne at 100mm depth |
| Supplied | Produced and screened at our Hope Valley yard |
| Delivery | Perth metro on our own fleet, or pick up from Hope Valley |
Delivered regularly into Baldivis and Armadale and Byford. See all delivery areas.
Aim for 40 to 75mm compacted over a prepared, weed-matted base. Light foot traffic paths can sit at the lower end, while paths that will see wheelbarrows, bikes or regular family traffic do better at 60 to 75mm. Compact it with a plate compactor after a light watering for the firmest result.
Plan on 75 to 100mm of brick fines as the finished topping, laid over a properly compacted roadbase or limestone base that carries the actual load. The brick fines is the running surface, not the structural base, so don't skip the base course underneath for a driveway that takes vehicles.
Most footing applications sit around 75 to 100mm over a compacted, laser-graded base. Depth affects soundness as much as comfort, too shallow and horses feel the base, too deep and it strains tendons, so get your base and depth checked against your discipline before ordering a full arena's worth.
At 1.3 tonnes per cubic metre, one cubic metre covers 40m² at 25mm deep, 20m² at 50mm, about 13.3m² at 75mm, or 10m² at 100mm. Multiply your area by the depth in metres, then by 1.3, to get tonnes, or use our volume calculator to do it for you.
It can, mainly in the first heavy rain after laying if it's sitting wet against a pale surface. Keep it clear of light coloured pavers, render and concrete until it's compacted and settled, or hose those surfaces down after the first solid rain. Once it's bedded in this isn't an ongoing issue.
Used at the right depth over a properly built and graded base, it's a workable footing option that drains and dries faster than clay and doesn't turn slippery in the wet. It's not automatically the right choice for every arena, get your base design checked, especially around depth and drainage, before committing a full arena to it.
Yes. Spread it evenly, water it in lightly so it's damp rather than wet, then compact with a plate compactor for paths and small areas, or a roller for driveways, hardstand and arenas. Too much water and it will pump and rut under the compactor; too little and it won't bind properly.
Red brick fines is our finest cut, screened down small so it compacts to a firm, even surface suited to paths, courts and arenas. The 20mm and 35mm red crushed brick are coarser grades meant as ground cover, garden beds and drainage backfill, where you want texture and voids rather than a compacted surface.
Yes, it works well as the fine levelling layer, screeded 20 to 30mm thick over a compacted roadbase or limestone sub-base, giving the turf backing a smooth, free-draining surface to sit on. It's used the same way our concrete fines (0-10mm) product is, as the final trim layer, not the structural base.
WA recyclers that process construction and demolition material, including us, operate under regulatory requirements covering how material is accepted, inspected and handled, with procedures for isolating anything suspect. That's an industry framework rather than a certificate on every load. If asbestos testing matters for your job, ask us about the specific load you're buying before you order.
Properly compacted over a good base and edged, no, it drains through rather than washing off. Freshly laid material on a slope, or laid without compacting or edging, can shed fines in a downpour, which is why base preparation, compaction and edging matter more than the material choice itself.
Less than through soil or mulch, but not never. A weed mat or geofabric under the initial layer is the main defence and is worth installing properly at the start. Over years, as dust and organic matter build up on the surface, some weed growth on top of an unmatted area is normal.
It suits the surrounds, practice run ups and net areas around a wicket, where its firm, free-draining, low-dust surface holds up to constant landing and pivoting. The playing pitch or turf wicket itself is a specialist job that needs purpose-built construction, not a crushed brick topping.
Limestone binds harder and is the standard structural base under Perth driveways, but it sets very firm and can leach a pale residue. Red brick fines gives a softer, warmer finished surface and better drainage, but still needs a proper base underneath it, it isn't a base material on its own for vehicle areas.
Not the way dyed mulch or timber does. It's fired clay, so the colour is stable in UV. Over years of traffic the surface can dull slightly as the top fines wear finer and get carried off on shoes and tyres, which is normal and is fixed with a light top-up rather than a full relay.
For a path, courtyard or verge, yes, most people manage it with a rake, a hired plate compactor and a hose for the watering-in step. Driveways, hardstand and arenas involve more base preparation and are usually better handled by someone experienced in that scale of earthworks and compaction.
Some fine red dust tracks indoors on shoes for the first few weeks after laying, the same as any freshly laid crushed material. It settles down once the surface has been compacted and trafficked in. A boot brush or mat at the door near a newly laid path helps in that first stretch.
Yes, it's a common choice for both. It compacts to a firm, free-draining surface that doesn't turn to mud like bare dirt and doesn't hold odour the way organic mulch can. Lay it over a compacted, edged base at path depth (40 to 75mm) and it holds up well to daily traffic from animals.
Crushed cream brick ground cover in a warm natural tone. Drains well and never rots down.
View Cream Crushed Brick »Finely crushed cream brick, compacts firm and light-toned for paths and courtyards.
View Cream Brick Fines »Crushed red brick in a rich terracotta 20mm grade. Lasting cover, doubles for drainage.
View Red Crushed Brick (20mm) »Coarser 35mm red crushed brick for bold ground cover texture and fast-flowing drainage.
View Red Crushed Brick (35mm) »Send a quote request and we will come back with a firm delivered price, or call the yard.